Kenya
Masai Mara Game Reserve
Expedition No. 3
Our trip to the Masai Mara Game Reserve was our last expedition. This time, our focus was to learn about wildlife management. We saw in the Masai Mara some of the most amazing stuff of our whole stay in Kenya. The picture to the right illustrates how incredibly large termite mounds can be. In Kenya, termite mounds are almost as prevalent as grass.
Mosaic Land
The "Mara" in the name Masai Mara means "mosaic." And so, the land in the Masai Mara is a mosaic of vegetation types. You can see the mosaic very clearly in the background hills of the pictures shown here.
Wildlife Sightings
All the large, charismatic animals were abundant in the Masai Mara—lions, elephants, rhinoceros, cheetahs, hyenas, and all the standard ungulates. During this time, most wildebeest formed very large herds. I couldn't help but notice this lone wildebeest forming an impressive silhouette at the horizon.
Just Like On Film
We came across a huge horde of vultures feeding on a giraffe carcass. The vultures made an awful hissing racket as they competed for choice morsels of rot. For some of the students, this was appalling. For me, it was just as interesting as any of the more peaceful and charismatic wildlife.
We were observing a herd of wildebeest when suddenly, a cheetah popped into view and sprang after one of the younger members of the herd. What a thrill! It was the closest we had ever gotten to seeing a predator making a kill.
As it turns out, the hunt was unsuccessful. The cheetah managed to bat at the young wildebeest's hind legs, but its mother bravely confronted the cheetah and forced it to back off. On a sour end note, a rather aggressive van of tourists had driven right up to the cheetah while it rested from its exertion. Unfortunately, the intrusion guaranteed that the cheetah would not try again any time soon.
Don't Ever Be An Obnoxious Tourist
Tourists can get pretty aggressive and disrespectful of the space and peace that wildlife need. Early in our stay at the Masai Mara, we were driving around and heard some commotion going on. Some elephants were roaring and quite upset. Whatever was going on, a caravan of tourists had nearly surrounded these pissed elephants. Those obnoxious tourists deserved a sound beating.
Only A Step Away
We were so fortunate to be able to camp out right on the Mara. We were also lucky to be able to tour part of the reserve on foot. Walking around among wildlife is such a different experience from driving among them. The wildlife in the parks are so habituated to vehicles that they often barely bat an eyelash at humans approaching on wheels. On the other hand, our being on foot gives both sides, human and wildlife, a healthy respect for each other. When we hiked our safari, we spotted a pride of lions not too far away. They avoided us, but I couldn't help but be nervous. I felt as if anything could have happened.
Assault On Dangerous, Rabid Animal!
In this picture, we spotted a dangerous, rabid, man-eating pigmy wildebeest. Can you see the expression of fright on our faces? It looks like mirth, but it isn't. It's a good thing all Kenyan national park rangers carry assault rifles. (I believe the rangers are armed so wickedly because of the danger of poachers, not the danger of wildlife.)
The Masai
And finally, we come to the famous Masai people. We spent some time talking to a group of Masai people in their "village." They lived in bomas, small huts built of mud and cow dung, all of which surrounded a central cattle corral. If you learn more about the Masai, you will know that their lives, religion, customs, and livelihood all revolve around their cattle and other livestock.
When boys become young men, they are initiated into warrior-hood. They are circumcised, wear red ochre in their hair and on their skin, don red clothing, and take on the protective duties of a warrior for 7 or more years. Warriors prove their bravery by singlehandedly slaying a lion. Warriors apparently also need to help their grandmothers cook.
Although the lives of the Masai revolve around their livestock, they are not opposed to earning some extra money by catering to the tourist. In this picture, they pose for us as we take pictures. They seem to have gotten the routine down pat.
Just previous to this photo op, the Masai women had all their souvenir trinkets—necklaces, bracelets, carvings—sprawled on scarves on the ground, for sale. Some photogenic Masai boys were kind enough to pose—for money. They asked me if I wanted to take a picture of them. Of course, why not? I said, "Ok." I took the picture, and they promptly stuck out their palms and named their sitting fee.